#55: Canyonlands National Park & the Last of Utah

Canyonlands and Arches National Parks are often visited together because they are only about a 30-minute drive from one another. I took only one day to visit Canyonlands, and I did not see the park's southern portion - The Needles. I only explored the area called Island in the Sky - which is the most visited part and closest to Moab.

I especially loved this park. The views were spectacular. Addie and I visited Grand View Point, Buck Canyon, and Green River Overlooks, and from every angle, Canyonlands was fascinating. This landscape defines the wild west, with roads preserved and untouched today but made years ago for mining and other resources.

In the afternoon, we swung by Dead Horse Point State Park, which is right near Canyonlands' northern entrance. As legend has it, cowboys corraled horses into this point and then blocked them with branches and brush, so they were trapped. The cowboys took the horses they wanted and left the rest corralled on the point with no food and water. As an animal lover, I'm banking on this story being false.

Small hiking trails and paths surrounded the overview area of Dead Horse Point State Park. We walked around, stopping at different overlook views.

I craved a “real” shower and needed to do some laundry, so I found Archview RV Park outside Moab. I got a discount rate because part of the park was closed and I had such a small rig. 

The next morning, with freshly-washed hair and clean laundry in tow, I was off. 

I wanted to check out Lake Powell and Glen Canyon Recreation Area, a place I had heard about but didn’t know what to find there. The route was a roundabout one but very scenic. 

We drove to Bullfrog, UT, which is where the road (UT-276) meets a part of Lake Powell. I saw signs for a ferry, and after some investigating (mostly a chat with the ranger at the gate into Glen Canyon Recreation Area), I learned that the ferry takes you across the lake to Halls Crossing, where you can continue on UT-276.

It was indeed, an adventure. The next ferry was at 3:30 pm, and I was the only car inline (as the season is over). I hung out by the lake a bit before driving my entire rig onto the ferry. The captain even let us up on the top where he was so he could meet Addie.

The ferry dumped us right back onto the road; it was as if we didn’t take a ferry at all.

I continued driving until late afternoon when I started looking for a place to camp. I found some free land outside Blanding, UT, to stay for the night before crossing the state line into Arizona.

Ciao for now, Utah!

#54: Arches National Park

Arches National Park is not very large, but it’s like Zion or Yellowstone in that it’s a popular one, with a lot to see. To navigate it most efficiently, I consulted help from a third party called Dirt in my Shoes. I bought a 2-day itinerary (online) from Dirt in my Shoes, and it took the stress out of me having to plan out how I was to do it myself. 

I rolled into Moab - the town which hosts Arches - late afternoon. It was still cold but more manageable than it was in Colorado. On my way to some dispersed camping land, I drove right past the park entrance, so I went ahead and got my park sign photo out of the way. 

My dispersed campsite was good enough for one night. I mean, I really can’t complain about this view. 

As beautiful as this scenery is, I wanted a campsite where I would feel comfortable leaving the Airstream while exploring the park. This one was just not it.

The next morning, I left somewhat early to take a ride over to Goose Island Campground. One site was unoccupied, and I grabbed it. Soon thereafter, I unhitched the trailer and headed into the park. Simultaneously, I found a last-minute Rover sitter for Addie for the following day. There was a hike or two that I wanted to do and couldn’t bring her, unfortunately.

Addie and I ventured into downtown Moab to check out the scene. I grabbed a coffee and a bagel and visited a few shops. Nothing too eventful was happening, and I decided to make my way to the park.

Arches - Day 1:

I was shocked to find the entrance to the park uncrowded. I drove right in and didn’t have to wait in a line. I couldn’t figure out where all the visitors were. It was cold, yes, but not that cold. I asked the ranger at the gate, and she told me that it is peculiar - but not to jinx it! 

Driving in, I was in awe of what I saw. As far as I could see were red rock formations, unlike anything I had ever seen. We stopped at the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint to take it all in.

According to the Dirt in my Shoes itinerary, it's best to visit Delicate Arch first thing in the morning to beat the crowds. But, since the park (oddly) was not busy, I decided to check it out that afternoon.

First, I drove to Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint and Lower Delicate Arch Viewpoint - eh. Delicate Arch was still so far away, lacking the "wow" factor. The DA trail was only 3.5 miles, and the weather was cool - so cool that it would not be a problem to leave Addie in her comfy bed in the back seat of the car with the windows opened. She is so good. I also read that DA is best to visit in the late afternoon, so the timing was perfect.

I hustled on the trail, though. I hate leaving Addie. When I turned the corner to find the iconic Delicate Arch waiting for me, I was awestruck. It was breathtaking.

On the way back out of the park, we stopped at a few more overlooks. Beauty everywhere. Including fluffy white beauty.

Arches - Day 2:

I got an early start the following morning. Even though the park wasn’t busy the last few days, I was still playing it safe by getting to the park early. I packed up, left the campsite, dropped Addie off at her sitter, and drove to the most northern end of Arches National Park. Double O Arch hike was first on the agenda for today. 

I hit the trail by 8 am. Once again, it was cold, but it got warmer as I continued moving. This trail had so many arches, including Landscape, Navajo, and Partition Arches. The final and farthest arch to see was the Double O Arch. At times the trail was ambiguous, but I found it with the help of a few hiking buddies I met along the way.

On the way out, I stopped by the Windows Section. Here live even more arches.

The one last stop I made was to Park Avenue and Courthouse Towers - named after what these rock formations resemble.

I finished my second day at Arches earlier than planned, which was fine because I was ready to pick up Addie from the sitter. I scooped her very happily, got back in the car, and was on my way.

Canyonlands National Park was next, and not at all that far away.

#53: Great Sand Dunes & Mesa Verde National Parks

Great Sand Dunes National Park

From Colorado Springs, Great Sand Dunes National Park is about a 3.5-hour drive. I was glad to be heading south because the weather was turning - it was snowing with freezing temperatures when I hit the road.

I reserved a two-night camping reservation at Pinon Flats, the campground within the park. I was surprised to get a reservation (mostly because it was for Friday and Saturday night), but I don’t ask questions when I get lucky.

Maybe I’m spoiled, but in viewing these dunes, it was a grim comparison to the dunes I saw in New Mexico at White Sands National Park. Those dunes were just so incredibly white, which made them unique. I think what was interesting about these dunes in Colorado was that they had white snowcap mountains in their background. And, they were massive. Beach dunes are not as enormous and vast. 

The park is small, and the campground was easy to locate. And it was tough to beat the view:

Our first activity on the agenda was, of course, the dunes. Because (sarcasm here) Addie and I are always so lucky, we picked the windiest day to visit sand. This is how it went.

It. Was. So. Windy.

The photos without Addie and me in them are way more appealing. The dunes were beautiful - especially with the bluest of skies as the backdrop.

I don’t love sand. The dunes are pretty to look at, but I don’t need to walk in them - especially on a windy day like this one was. Addie and I quickly B lined for the “forest” side of the park for a hike. We were much happier. And, I should note, dogs are allowed on the dunes and some trails.

After our hike, we drove to the park entrance for our standard park sign photo. We also caught some glimpses of the late afternoon over the dunes.

Back to the campsite, it was. There, we stumbled upon a stellar sunset.

Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde is another 3.5 hours west of Great Sand Dunes. I had never driven through this part of Colorado; it’s not as picturesque as the drive along I-70 (through Vail, Breckenridge, Golden, etc.), that’s for sure.

It was frigid. Very, very cold. I’m not sure if it was the low temps or the off season, but as I got closer to Mesa Verde, it seemed like fewer and fewer people were out and about. I was used to areas around the parks bustling with tourists and businesses, and this was the complete opposite.

I found an RV park right outside the Mesa Verde entrance, Ancient Cedars. Not only was the one campground inside the park closed for the season, but also, there were no hook-ups. Given these freezing temperatures, I wanted the option of keeping the heat and water heater on, even while I wasn’t in the trailer. I didn’t need any pipes freezing.  

Addie and I drove into the park before the sun went down, picking up a map at the (closed) visitor center.

We set out early the following day. I spoke to the ranger at the entrance gate, and she advised me on what was open, what was closed, and what I needed to check out. This park was a lot of history, and I was ready to learn.

Mesa Verde is a park that has preserved a lot of history, specifically the history of the Ancestral Pueblo people. The park includes 4,500 archeological sites. The open area that I visited, Chapin Mesa, features dwellings of ancestors from about 550 AD to about 1200 when they left the vicinity and relocated elsewhere.

Pit houses were the first types of homes built and used from 550 to 750 AD. Addie seems really interested in this stuff (first photo, bottom).

Around 750 AD, people began building houses above ground, with mud and poles—underground kivas, which served as social areas for religious, social, and utilitarian purposes, were positioned right outside the houses.

As time went on, architecture advanced to stone masonry. Living spaces were as high as two or three stores and adjoined to neighbors.

From about the 1190s to the late 1270s, homesteads evolved to cliff dwellings. Archeologists are not exactly sure why this move took place, but they speculate it could have been for enemy defense, natural elements protection, or religious purposes.

These cliff dwellings are so fascinating. It amazed me to see how well they are made and preserved.

I picked an excellent park not to hike because I wouldn’t have lasted the cold. At the height of the day, it was only about 15 degrees. I was so happy to have a campsite with electricity, as I could turn the heat on as high as I wanted, for as long as I wanted without risking running out of battery. 

Returning to Utah was next. I skipped over Moab, Arches National Park, and Canyonlands National Park the last time I was in Utah because I wanted to get to Colorado for the foliage - and before it got too cold in the high elevation. I made the right decision because I wouldn’t have wanted to be at a high altitude during this cold spell I was enduring.

#50: Petroglyphs & Canyons

There was more to see in Utah, but I deemed it time to head to Colorado. My "planned" route had gotten off track a while ago, so going off-track a little more wouldn't hurt. I sound like my mom when I say this, but I wanted to catch the Colorado Rocky Mountains' foliage. To do so, I needed to get going promptly.

The next national park I wanted to visit was Black Canyon of the Gunnison outside Montrose, CO. The drive from Salt Lake City was almost six hours, and because I didn't hit the road from SLC until later in the day, I'd stop somewhere on the way.

The first RV park I found appeared booked online. But I swung by there anyway because sometimes, when you show up, you get lucky. I didn't get lucky - it was filled. There was another park nearby in Helper, UT. It didn't look great, but it was just a stopover. It offered water and electric hookups, which was helpful.

I was only planning to stay for one night, but things changed (as they often do). I started chatting with the owner, and she recommended a few local things worth checking out. My ears perked up when she mentioned petroglyphs. I was also intrigued because the petroglyph location she mentioned was not very well-known. I love finding hidden gems. This one was called Nine-Mile Canyon.

I decided to book a second night and take the full day to explore my newly-learned-about attraction. I stopped by the historic town of Helper, before making my way to Nine-Mile Canyon.

I couldn’t put an address into Google Maps to find Nine-Mile Canyon because, well, there isn’t one. There also wasn’t a visitor center or anything like that. I had to navigate myself and figure it out. The RV park lady gave me a paper listing out mile-markers along the canyon road and what to find at each. That was all I had, but I found this map after following the verbal directions to the canyon entrance.

Addie and I were off on an adventure. I reset my odometer at the start to ensure I was on-par with the mile-markers on the "ditto." At first, the petroglyphs were tough to spot, but I got good at it as I got farther into the canyon. It was like a fun game spotting all the rock drawings. Some were right off the road, and some were viewable after a quick hike.

I had never seen such incredible petroglyphs. And to find them in a place I didn't even know about made them that much more special.

Before I knew it, I was crossing the border into colorful Colorado. Having lived there for a few years in the past, it's still "home" to me in many ways. This state makes me happy in so many ways.

I found a free place to camp outside Montrose. This area was not the Colorado landscape I love, but it was close to the entrance to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

The only thing I knew about this national park before visiting is that it's a canyon - that's it. Addie and I arrived at the South Rim entrance the next morning, heading first to the visitor center. The initial question I typically ask the rangers is, "What are the top things I should see?" The next question is always, "Where can I bring my dog?" Based on the ranger's answers to these questions, we headed out on the Rim Rock Trail. Adde was allowed!

The out and back three-mile trail provided fantastic views of the massive canyon.

I felt good about taking a little hike with Addie. After, we drove the South Rim Road and stopped at some of the overlooks. There were many pull-offs, so we picked and chose based on what the ranger suggested.

The rim was one perspective of this park, but the bottom of the canyon was the other. We headed back towards the south entrance station and took a left onto East Portal Road. Vehicles longer than 22 feet were not permitted. The road was long, curvy, and steep, but it led us down the canyon to the Gunnison River. It was so peaceful and quiet down there.

I was looking forward to what awaited me in the Colorado mountains…mountain towns!

#48: Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef National Parks

Bryce Canyon National Park is not far from Zion, which worked out well given that I didn't leave Springdale until around 4 pm. I almost waited and went the next day, but I wasn't tired and felt like driving.

I booked a campsite near Bryce to have a place to land. I arrived after dusk, so I'm glad I planned a bit and didn't have to drive around in the dark looking for a place to stay. The campground was a little "out there," and the roads getting to it were long and washboard-y. On my way, though, I passed some forest land where other people were camping, so I decided to stay at my reserved site only one night and relocate to the forest land the next day.

A constant challenge with forest land is finding a location with mobile service. One spot may have two bars, and if you move 10 feet to a different spot, it may have no bars. I wanted service because I needed to be in touch with Airstream of Utah and research upcoming destinations.

This particular area was heavily occupied, full of ATV's. I don't love camping near these guys because there are constant sounds of motors running and engines revving, but I sacrificed. It wasn't too bad, especially with this sunset.

Bryce Canyon National Park

I took one day to chill, read, and write. The next day, leaving my Airstream at the campground, Addie and I headed to Bryce Canyon. This was going to be a “drive-and-see”-type visit. The park stretches north to south and is easily drivable. After a trip to the visitor center, we knew what we wanted to see, and we hit the road to see it.

The drive was an out and back, with stops along the way to get out and check out different viewpoints of the canyon. The main points are Sunrise, Sunset, Inspiration, and Bryce. The landscape is stunning and, depending on what time of day, can look very different.

I won’t lie…I wanted to hike down into the canyon—however, Addie. Although I did less activity at Bryce, Addie was with me for it, which was enough for me. Plus, you’d be surprised at how exhausting driving a park and getting in and out of the car can be. It makes for a long day!

Capitol Reef National Park

About two hours away from Bryce is Capitol Reef National Park, which was my next destination.

Capitol Reef is a geologic and historic national park. It’s known for it’s “Waterpocket Fold,” a 100-mile long warp in the earth’s crust, formed by a mountain-building event 50-70 million years ago. The name of the park originated from: 

Capitol: The Navajo Sandstone white domes that look like the tops of capitol buildings. 

Reef: The rocky cliffs, like an ocean reef.

Much of the history of the parkland is preserved. The Fruita Historic District hosts what is now known as the Gifford House. The homestead features other buildings and land development appropriate to Utah farm homes of the early 1900s. 

The park’s scenic drive runs east/west and takes you through the Waterpocket Fold. The rock formations are incredible. Addie and I stopped off the road in a few areas for a little fun with my tripod and iPhone camera.

It was Saturday, and time to start making my way back to Salt Lake City. I had one more stop along the way, which was Pando, aka, “The Trembling Giant.” Stay tuned for more on this.