#61: Rounding the Corner...

I was closing in on the end of my year of travel, but I wasn’t done quite yet…

Grand Canyon National Park

I bet you thought I'd forgotten about this one, huh? Nope.

To be blunt, I wasn't super excited about visiting Grand Canyon. I knew I would go because, after all, it's Grand Canyon. However, it's somewhat annoying to get to, I knew it would be super crowded, and we wouldn't be hiking at all due to Addie not being allowed on trails. My friend, who used to lead tours of the Grand Canyon, managed to pump me up for it, though (thanks, Maura).

The first thing I did upon arrival at the South Rim near Mather Point was to replenish the water tank in the Airstream. I did this right in the park, near the Mather Campground. I was pleasantly greeted by a thirsty visitor while doing so.

My campsite near Grand Canyon was unique. It was on national forest land, but I had to go through the actual park to get there (which I had never experienced before). It was off a forest road in the park but within the Kaibab National Forest. It was a fantastic spot: not many campers, free, sunny and shady sites, and close proximity to the park. 

Some South Rim areas were closed, including the Desert View Watchtower, but there was still much to see. Addie and I got started early and headed right to Moran Point for our first glimpse of the canyon. 

The canyon is breathtaking. The vastness is indescribable. I also think that it’s the vastness that makes it even more difficult to fathom and comprehend the size. It’s just unbelievable.

Average width (rim to rim): 10 miles

Length: 277 miles

Average depth (rim to river): 5,000 feet (NOTE: the North Rim rises about 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim)

We drove west along Desert View Drive, stopping at various points to get different perspectives of the canyon. Addie joined me on a walk along a section of the Rim Trail. I couldn’t help but stop, sit, and ponder while taking it in.

I have to say; I felt a little guilty. I felt guilty for not wanting to hike while there. The truth is this: I felt more affinity to other national parks than to this one, and at this park, I seemed to have a "check it off the list" mentality. It offers much more than viewpoints, I realize, but I didn't explore those activities on this particular visit. It was a healthy exercise for me: I had to convince myself that there was no reason to feel remorse. I did what I wanted to do, and there is nothing wrong with that.

Back to Zion

Remember when I was visiting Zion and the trail I wanted to hike - Angel’s Landing - was closed due to COVID? Well, it opened back up again. And I was going to hike it.

It was sort-of on the way back to Denver (where I had to drop off the Airstream). I was not in a massive time crunch, and putting into practice what I’ve learned along the way, I needed to do it now, or perhaps not have the chance again.

En route to Zion, I made a stop at the made-famous-by-Instagram location, Horseshoe Bend.

The viewing area was rather large, but I couldn't seem to find a vantage point for the best shot. However, I didn't need a perfect photo to appreciate this area of the Colorado River's natural beauty.

Going to Zion National Park for the second time was seamless. I already knew the lay of the land and the logistics that needed coordination. I set up Addie at the daycare she loves, I made a reservation for the canyon shuttle, and I knew exactly where to camp. I was excited to check out this epic trail finally. And to do so before the weather turned - I didn’t want to tackle this hike with snow or ice adorning the path.

It was the day after Thanksgiving when I set out to hike Angel’s Landing. Based on my experience, I would say there was an increased amount of visitors for the holiday weekend. The trail was congested.

I didn’t care. I had been anticipating this hike for the last several months. I knew what the first two miles entailed, as I had done that portion on my first trip to Zion. The new stuff was the last half mile, and it was worth the wait. It was fun, terrifying, magnificent, and thought-provoking all at the same time.

For context, there are deadly drop-offs on both sides of the trail, with the trail width only 4.5-5 feet wide at times. Chain railings secured by metal posts are positioned in steep and narrow places to guide hikers and ease balance and footing. The views are spectacular, but until I got to the top, I didn’t look anywhere else except where I was stepping!

Check out this video for more perspective.

Completing this icon of a hike was ironic. I realize this may sound dramatic, but this wasn’t just a hike. It was the last hike of my “Lyfe in Tow year” and this mental, physical, and emotional journey. 

I left Zion feeling a variety of mixed emotions. At that moment, though, my focus was getting to Denver. There, I would pass the Basecamp on to its new loving owners. Back through the Colorado Rockies, I went.

#59: Valley Girls

When my friend Amanda expressed interest in visiting me on the road, choosing a time and place for us to meet was somewhat of a crapshoot. She booked the flight months beforehand, so I had to guess a little where I’d be when she planned to come. I knew I’d be “around” Arizona, and I knew the agenda included Death Valley National Park, so we decided flying into Las Vegas would work (Vegas is about two hours east of Death Valley). Scooping her in Vegas, and where we’d travel together, was factored into my route planning.

I booked a site at Sam’s Town KOA (Kampgrounds of America) in Las Vegas for the night of Amanda’s arrival. Here, I’d empty/fill tanks and stock up on groceries (and wine). It was strange to go to Vegas and “camp.” The only other times I’ve gone to Vegas was for work trips or bachelorette parties.

I quickly introduced Amanda to the RV life. We began the next day with a campground shower. I also demonstrated how I dump the black tank, fill the fresh water tank, and pack up the Airstream when it’s time to drive. I have to say, she picked it up pretty quickly.

We had five full days together. We planned to hit up Death Valley National Park, Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada, and the Hoover Dam.

I want to add: I had no expectations for Death Valley. I felt a little badly about Amanda joining me for this particular park because I didn’t think it was one of the “good” ones. I would soon be proven wrong.

Day #1: Las Vegas & Death Valley

First on the docket was a trip to Trader Joe’s for groceries. After driving for two hours, we arrived at Death Valley mid-day, and although we didn’t have any plans for where to camp, I was confident we’d find a place inside the park. After scoping out a few options, we decided on the first-come, first-serve Texas Springs Campground near the Furnace Creek Visitor Center.

By the time we set up, made some necessary phone calls, and laid out a plan for the next few days, it was time to crack open the wine and whip out the cheese and crackers. We took a quick walk up a hill around our campground to catch the sunset.

Day #2: Death Valley

Per Amanda’s request (and given she is an early bird), we got up the next morning for the sunrise at Zabriskie Point. We weren’t the only ones with this idea, but that didn’t take away from the daybreak beauty. THIS is why the song, America the Beautiful, talks about purple mountains…

Next, we drove to Badwater Basin, North America's lowest elevation at 282 feet below sea level. This area is home to the salt flats, an iconic part of Death Valley National Park. It was still early morning when we went; the sun was still behind valley walls, which explains the photos' dark shadows.

On the way back to the campground, we stopped to drive down the one-way loop called Artists Drive. Here, we found Artists Palette, rainbow-colored rock formations that represent, well, artists palettes.

We chose an afternoon hike on which Addie could join us. This hike, Titus Canyon Narrows, is along a 4x4 road, but the ranger informed us that it is scenic, unique, and flexible in that we could go as far as we wanted and turn around. We passed many Jeeps (or I should say, they passed us) - the entire road is 27 miles and connects to one of the major park roads. 

Amanda and I hadn’t hiked together since we summited Mount Kilimanjaro in December 2018. We were long overdue. Also, to add, Amanda and I have been friends since childhood. Born only one month apart, we grew up as neighbors in Connecticut. Over the years, we have remained close friends and both grew to love taking on challenges - especially in the active/outdoor arena. She pushed me to run a few marathons!

And I pushed her to sample the nomad life. hehe.

After about three miles out, we turned back for a total of six miles. We then drove up to Dante’s View, which provides a panoramic view of the valley below.

A much-needed snack awaited us back at the campsite, so we headed “home.” This is where I asked Amanda to stand on a bucket. That’s right. I needed her to help me record a video of me, and I wanted it to be taken at eye-level. We needed a little “boost” for her.

Do you know how many uses a bucket has when you’re on the road? So many. Here are a few:

1. Step stool (example above)

2. Seat

3. Vessel to transport water or other items

4. Trash can

5. Washing bin

I digress.

Day #3: Death Valley to Valley of Fire

The next day we left Death Valley for Valley of Fire, but not before we squeezed in one more hike. We wanted to see the Red Cathedral. We were up and at it before Addie’s desired wake-up time, so she happily slept in the Airstream while we hiked.

Valley of Fire was about a three-hour drive from Death Valley. We made a few pitstops through small towns before arriving at Valley of Fire State Park. We drove through the park to the other side to find a pretty solid dispersed camping area. Amanda was getting a pretty good snapshot of my accommodations on the road: an RV park, a park campground, and a dispersed campground.

Day #4: Valley of Fire State Park

We had an incredible day in this state park. The best part was that Addie could go with us wherever we went. We saw beautifully colorful rocks, witnessed a herd of bighorn sheep, and hiked a cumulative seven miles. These photos do no justice to what we experienced.

Day #5: Hoover Dam

Valley of Fire State Park is only about an hour from Hoover Dam, which is also in the direction back to Las Vegas. Neither of us had been and figured this was as good a time as any.

We (well, Amanda) found a walking path along the Historic Railroad Trail and we “hiked” to the dam. This trail is the former railroad that brought supplies and equipment to and from the dam as it was under construction.

Side note: I can’t express enough how helpful it is to have a navigator and someone to help with researching things to do and visit. I could drive and Amanda could google things, so we planned a lot in the car - which made things a lot easier.

The dam is massive. However, it’s still just a dam. Because of COVID, some areas and tours were closed, but we were content just walking around and taking a look from above. I was glad to visit the infamous Hoover Dam, but I think I enjoyed the historic railroad trail more.

Amanda’s visit was coming to a close. We headed back to Sam’s Town KOA in Vegas to culminate the trip. I know Amanda enjoyed her five days of RV living, but I’m sure she was ready to return to her life in Chicago.

It was back to the two of us: Addie and me. I dropped Amanda at the airport and hit the road, once again feeling right at home behind the wheel.

Special thanks to Amanda for joining me on the road and doing so COVID-safe!

#58: Joshua Tree National Park

When my friend, Alfredo, helped me navigate my route around Arizona (he lives there), he informed me that he would be at one of his favorites - Lost Dutchman State Park in the coming weeks. We stayed in touch, and it ended up working out that I could meet him there for a few days.

Alfredo and I first met on Instagram, as he and his wife are fellow Airstreamers. We met in person back in Las Cruces, New Mexico, in early March. When I left Texas in May to hit the road after sheltering in place, Addie and I crashed at their house outside Phoenix en route to California.

I was excited to join Alfredo at Lost Dutchman - from all of his Instagram stories and posts, I knew it was one of his favorites. This Arizona State Park sits right at the base of the Superstition Mountains. This was my campsite view. Not too shabby!

Alfredo was sure to bring only the best service for Addie.

***no Addies were harmed or given alcohol in the taking of this photo***

In the morning, we met up for a hike up the Superstitions. The weather wasn’t the greatest, but it was still beautiful - and seemed appropriate for visiting the Superstition Mountains.

I left this part out of my last post, but part of determining my route through Arizona involved the timing of when I needed to be in Las Vegas. A dear friend bought a plane ticket to Las Vegas to meet me on my travels. I was picking her up on a specific date, which needed to factor into my travel schedule.

That said, one of the other places I skipped in the spring was Joshua Tree National Park. Again, it was too hot there by May when I picked back up my travels. Since it’s close to Arizona, I determined months ago that I’d visit Joshua Tree when I went to Arizona. And it was now my next stop.

After Addie and I bid Alfredo farewell, and after a quick stop to my new favorite coffee shop, Dutch Brothers, we hit the road west for Joshua Tree. It was about a five-hour drive, but I was in no rush.

Upon arrival at the park’s northern side, I went inside the park to scope out any available campgrounds. There are many campgrounds in Joshua Tree, but I found all sites at all locations occupied. Exiting the park to the north, I managed to find some dispersed camping land for the night. I’d leave the next morning and find a place inside the park for the following night. I wanted to stay at least one night inside the park.

In the morning, entering through the west entrance (from the north), I got my first view of the iconic Joshua Trees. Joshua Trees only grow in this desert - the Mojave. And, they are not technically trees. They are the world’s largest Yucca (which is considered a succulent).

We stopped at a few different campgrounds before finding a spot at Belle Campground. It was early, and it was cold. Once we got the Airstream settled, the first thing on our agenda was to find Arch Rock. After being at Arches, this arch wasn’t super impressive, but it was entertaining to rock scramble a bit to find it - it was off the trail and hidden.

On the way to Hidden Valley, we pulled over to - literally - play in the rocks. We had a little photoshoot, too.

I’m happy I explored Hidden Valley. The trail is short but very scenic. And along the path, I caught some rock climbers, so it was fun to see them in action.

We took a short ride to Keys View - the most popular viewpoint in Joshua Tree. You can see where the Mojave Desert meets the Colorado Desert and as far as Palm Springs and the Santa Rosa Mountains.

Belle Campground afforded us a vast playground. We headed back to do some exploring. As Addie and I were walking around, we met another solo female traveler with a vintage Airstream. She and I got to talking and ended up having a ton in common. Instagrams were exchanged. Who knows where we may run into each other again!

We departed Joshua Tree through the south entrance, near Cottonwood Visitor Center. On the way out, I took a short walk through the Cholla Cactus Garden. Although this hike is flat and only .25 of a mile, it’s dangerous. The Cholla Cactus has exceptionally sharp (and painful) needles - and they’re abundant. The Chollas are cool, though. They have a hombre look to them, which I found pretty.

I also stopped to take a walk through Cottonwood Spring. This area hosts a water source, which is rare in the desert. Trees and other vegetation grow here in the desert because of this spring.

Our desert journey would continue long after Joshua Tree. We were off to Vegas to pick up my friend before heading to Death Valley - another place we postponed visiting until now due to the hot temperatures in the spring and summer.

This may sound ridiculous, but since Joshua Tree is so renowned in pop culture and song lyrics and things like that, I anticipated a “spiritual” experience. I expected more fireside song singing, weed-smoking, and zen-forward activities. Maybe it was just too cold. :)

#57: Southern Arizona & Saguaro National Park

I went back and forth a lot with how to navigate Arizona. It's a massive state with so much to offer. I spent a lot of time mapping out what route makes the most sense. If I've learned anything on this trip, it's: do not wait to do something. If I want to do it, I can't think, "I'll do it later." I need to do it now. So, with this mantra in mind, I headed to the southeast part of the state.

While I was in southern Arizona, mainly for Saguaro National Park, I had two little towns on my radar: Bisbee and Tombstone. I checked out Bisbee first.

Bisbee

Like most of these small western towns, Bisbee started as a mining town in the late 1800s. The primary industry was mining until the 1970s when the mines closed. As people moved away for other opportunities, an influx of free-spirited artists found Bisbee an affordable place of creative inspiration. Now, it's culturally rich with a diverse population.

Addie and I got a last-minute reservation at an RV park right in the town called Queen Mine RV Park. Not only was the location convenient to explore Bisbee, but I also filled up and dumped Airstream tanks and charged the battery. 

Bisbee was cute. I'm not sure I "got" it, exactly, but it was eclectic, historic, and colorful. 

Tombstone

Tombstone is only about 30 minutes from Bisbee. I was psyched to see this place. Regretfully, I didn’t do enough research before visiting - I still haven’t seen the entire Tombstone movie. Rookie mistake. But, it was still very cool and “western.” Some would argue it’s a bit hokey, with the gunfight theaters and people dressed in period, but I ate it up. I also bought a pair of boots.

Some free, dispersed camping (boondocking) spots are great, and some are not. I happened to find an excellent one on the way from Tombstone to Saguaro. It was clean, quiet, spaced out, and far enough away to be secluded but close enough to be easy. It was also scenic.

Saguaro National Park

Saguaro National Park is in the Sonoran Desert. There are two sections of Saguaro National Park - Saguaro East (Rincon Mountain District) and Saguaro West (Tucson Mountain District). In the morning, we visited the east side, followed by the west side.

There are some trails to hike, and Addie and I did a few nature walks, but we mostly drove and shot photos. The west side seemed to bring me more excitement. The loop road becomes a dirt road, which is always more fun. Also, the west side seemed a lot less commercial. However, both were beautiful and filled with Saguaro and other types of cacti.

Here are some fun facts about Saguaros. I find them fascinating.

1. Saguaros are exclusive to the Sonoran Desert.

2. They are the largest cactus in the United States.

3. A saguaro can live to be 100-200 years old.

4. Saguaros have become a black market commodity, raking in thousands for hauls.

5. Saguaros may bloom flowers - the Arizona state flower - but only after the age of 35 years.

6. The roots are shallow and expand like an accordion to absorb water.

At this point of my journey, and for the past several weeks, I am feeling, well, tired. The travel has been so exhilarating, and I am ever-so-grateful to be experiencing what I am. However, I yearn to be stationary. I’m happy and good and enjoying it all, but I just wanted to acknowledge that for a second. I wouldn’t trade it for a second, and I’m fortunate to have an opportunity like this, but there are times when I wish I had a couch to lay on, nowhere to go, and a normal-sized freezer for ample cartons of ice cream.

For now, though, I’ll happily take my memory foam mattress pad on top of my Basecamp cushions, more exciting things to see and do in Arizona, and a freezer only large enough for a few Trader Joe’s pre-sauced pasta dishes.

Onward and upward…Perfect timing to meet my friend Alfredo at Lost Dutchman State Park outside Phoenix.

#56: Long-awaited Arizona

I headline this post the way I do because getting to Arizona took a while. My original plan was to visit Arizona after New Mexico in the spring, but because of COVID, I sheltered in place in Texas for two months. I didn’t get back on the road until May, and by then, I deemed it too hot to enjoy Arizona comfortably. Here I was, six months later, finally getting there.

I entered the state in the northeast corner. Even though it was out of the way, I was keen on visiting - or at least seeing - Monument Valley. Monument Valley is within the Navajo Nation, which is currently closed down due to COVID, so it wasn’t an option for me to go to the actual park. However, I could still drive to “Forest Gump Hill,” of which Monument Valley the backdrop.

If I were to have visited the park, I would have kept going straight on this road. However, because it was closed, combined with the fact that I wasn’t going in that direction, I turned around and headed back towards the road that would ultimately take me to Petrified Forest National Park.

It was a LONG drive to get there through the Navajo Nation - it seemed somewhat abandoned because nothing was open. Fuel stations weren’t even available. Also, I wanted to see a few other things in this area I couldn’t - Four Corners and Antelope Canyon. As I’ve said before, I can’t do everything - for one reason or another.

I had two options for camping at the south entrance of the park. Shockingly, they were both free, and both outside petrified wood gift shops. I opted for one - without really having a preference - and joined a few other campers. Or shall I say, “characters.” It was an eclectic group at the campground.

The entrance to the park was right there - this campground couldn’t have been more convenient.

Petrified Forest National Park started on the right foot with me because it’s dog-friendly. At the gate, I asked the ranger his recommendations for my day, and we were off.

The first stop was to the Rainbow Forest Museum & Visitor Center. The Giant Logs Trail followed, where we got our first glimpse of petrified logs. I was astounded by the colors and textures - unbelievable.

If you are curious, here is how petrified wood forms:

The Crystal Forest Trail warranted even more fascinating petrified wood. I found myself in awe, just staring at the colors and minerals in the wood-turned-rock.

I did not realize this, but “badlands” is a type of rock/land formation. I thought Badlands is only the name of the national park in South Dakota, but at Petrified Forest, there are “badlands.” Blue Mesa is a one-mile loop winding through purple, gray, and blue badlands.

The park’s northern end, north of the historic Route 66, is home to the Painted Desert Visitor Center and many beautiful overlook points. There is no doubt that the Painted Desert lives up to its name.

After only one day, we hit just about the entire park. All in all, I was pleasantly surprised: an easy park to navigate, small yet fulfilling, awe-inspiring, and dog friendly. Success.