#5: Mammoth Cave National Park
To be honest, I was seriously thinking about diverting my route and skipping Mammoth Cave National Park. To be REALLY honest, I was afraid. I was afraid it would be too cold in Kentucky (even though now I have a generator), and I didn’t want to end up in another situation similar to that at Shenandoah. I guess I was scarred (scared and scarred). Welp, I plowed through my fear and I went. And I’m really, really, really glad I did.
Back in October, I paid $80 for an annual membership to a really cool network called Harvest Hosts, which is a group of vineyards, wineries, farms and even golf courses around the country that allow RV’rs to stay a night on their property…no strings attached. On my way to Mammoth Cave, I spent a night at Twisted Vine Family Vineyard in Patriot, OH - which is very southern Ohio, along the Ohio River. There, I met and had a mini tasting with the owners, Bill and Mary Ellen. We talked family, business, travel, books and a little about the wine making process. Twisted Vine Family Vineyard was not just a “stop” on my trip - it was a place I met new friends, gained some knowledge and hopefully positively impacted Bill and Mary Ellen’s Monday night. Tasty wine, too - and beautiful tasting room and patio!
The next morning was spent driving. I wish it was earlier in the season because I could have taken advantage of Keeneland…I literally drove right by it!
I arrived to Mammoth Cave NP early afternoon. After a stop at the visitor center, I opted for two cave tours the following day (there were about 8-10 tours to choose from). I got a hiking trail recommendation for that afternoon, changed into my hiking boots and Addie and were off. A late afternoon hike is nice. It was quiet, serene and somewhat mysterious. It was perfect.
Back in the parking lot, I ran into some fellow Airstreamers. Just for context, Airstreams attract attention. They’re huge silver toaster-looking things on wheels. Further to that, my model (Basecamp) is unlike most of them (sort-of like “retro” and “modern” joined forces) so the sight of it often sparks a conversation. I met a couple and their baby who were traveling for a while in Canada and heading back to home to California. I also met a couple from Ithaca, NY who recently converted a Mercedes Sprinter van in which they had been living and traveling for nine weeks.
The cave tours were pretty cool. I honestly had no idea what to expect. One tour focused on the history of the cave and the other focused on the geology. I had high hopes of retaining a lot of facts, but here is what I’m able to regurgitate:
It’s called Mammoth Cave because it’s huge (derrrrr).
Mammoth Cave is the longest cave in the world. So far, it’s 412 miles in length. I say “so far” because there are still explorations taking place.
There are fish that live in the water-filled areas of the cave and they have no eyes (no need because it’s pitch black).
Many of the areas of the cave are named after places in New York - i.e. Grand Central and Frozen Niagara. The thought was that if they were named after famous places people liked to visit, then people would come visit the caves, too.
In the early 1900’s, the “Kentucky Cave Wars” took place. Many caves in Kentucky were in competition as tourist attractions.
Primitive people lived in/explored these caves thousands of years ago. Because of the humidity and no natural light, artifacts from these early inhabitants have been naturally preserved and are still being discovered.
Much of the cave exploration in the 1800’s was done by slaves - in particular a man named Stephen Bishop. He also led cave tours for white tourists. Even after the Civil War as a free man, Stephen continued to explore the cave(s).
In case you are wondering, Addie could not join me on the cave tours, unfortunately. She was happy as a clam, though, safely nuzzled in the trailer.
I think the coolest thing about Mammoth Cave (besides the cave) was the passion that the rangers and staff have for the park. From the rangers at the campsite and the staff at the visitor center to the tour guides, it was evident they love what they do and are dedicated to preserving what nature has provided. In today’s world, it’s rare to be exposed to people like that and it was not only heart-warming, but also eye-opening.
By mid-afternoon, we hit the road, heading south. I was excited for the next stop in Tennessee because my campsite had an electric hook up AND a water hook up. As a rookie road warrior, having these luxuries significantly reduces my stress level. Hopefully as I get more comfortable, that will change. Onward and upward!