#47: Springdale, UT & Zion National Park
Before arriving in Springdale, the town south of Zion National Park, I was a little anxious. Zion was a tricky one. There are so many incredible things to do and see, but I had several logistical factors to work out.
I wanted to do a few particular hikes, so this wasn’t going to be a “drive around and see” park visit.
Given #1, I needed to coordinate daycare for Addie. There was no leaving her in the car or the trailer, since temperatures were over 90-degrees most days.
To get into Zion Canyon, not only must one take a shuttle (no personal vehicles permitted in warmer months), but with COVID, one must make a reservation for the shuttle.
Parking. Springdale is a small “city”-like town whereby parking is not abundant. Especially parking with an RV. If I needed to park the trailer somewhere, I needed to coordinate where that would be and if I could walk to the shuttle from where it was.
This brings me to camping. If I was dispersed camping, did I feel comfortable leaving the trailer there while I went into the park? Was there somewhere I could pay to camp, so I didn’t have to worry about the trailer?
Shower. I would need to shower at some point. Damn Truma.
Given these factors, and help from my new friend, Matt (a friend of a friend who clued me in on the ins and outs of Zion), I devised a strategy.
I was able to reserve two nights at an RV park just outside the park entrance. This campground/resort had way more amenities than I wanted or needed, but the location was prime. The availability was few and far between, so I took what I could get and all the other logistics would be worked around the dates I got. This reservation was for a Monday and Tuesday night, and I arrived in town on a Saturday, so this gave me time to figure out getting into the park on a shuttle and what hikes I wanted to do and when.
The Zion Canyon Shuttle is reservable on recreation.gov. It books out months in advance, but the saving grace is that each day, at 9 am, they release additional reservations for the following day. For example, if you want a reservation for a Monday, you log in to recreation.gov on Sunday promptly at 9 am to reserve your time slot for Monday. However, you are taking a risk because there is a chance you may not get the reservation. It’s tough to risk things like that when all other logistics are get coordinated simultaneously.
One of the hikes at Zion that I had to do was The Narrows. This is one of the most epic and popular hikes in the southwest United States. It also required some equipment because you are hiking in water, through Zion Canyon.
Now that I’ve set the stage of what I was working with, I’ll kick off my Springdale and Zion experience by day.
Day 1: Saturday
I arrived in Springdale early evening and scouted out some BLM land in a neighboring town to crash for the night. Not a bad view at all.
Day 2: Sunday
With the Airstream in tow, we headed into Springdale. I found a specific RV parking area and paid $20 to park for the day (expensive!).
The first place we stopped was an adventure outfitting shop. I wanted to get some intel about hiking The Narrows and what it entailed. For the best experience, they recommended I rent neoprene socks and boots. I didn’t want to walk through water in my leather hiking boots, so renting the appropriate footwear was something I didn’t mind doing. Plus, I wanted to be comfortable so that I could enjoy it.
Also, it’s worth noting: these shops are not the type to “sell” you into anything you don’t need. They answered me honestly when I asked if I “needed” neoprene footwear. They told me I’d be a lot more comfortable than if I used my regular hiking boots.
To my surprise, for an additional fee, they offered a private shuttle into the park. This option meant I didn’t have to risk trying to get a reservation on the park shuttle through recreation.gov. I liked this idea. It was a bit more expensive than the $1 park shuttle, but worth it for the peace of mind knowing I’d get into the park. I rented equipment and reserved the private shuttle for Tuesday, meaning I’d also set up daycare for Addie on Tuesday.
For the rest of the day, we explored Springdale. Per Matt’s recommendation, we hit up Deep Creek Coffee Company for a late breakfast. So yummy. I also picked up a pair of shorts to wear while hiking The Narrows. I never wear shorts, but I deemed it necessary given the nature of this type of hike.
Day 3: Monday
After spending another night at the same dispersed camping area, we checked into the RV park around noon. I also confirmed Addie’s daycare reservation. I found a doggie daycare called Doggie Dude Ranch right outside town. Although it had great reviews (even locals I spoke to recommended it!), I was still a little nervous to leave Addie. I knew she’d be safe, but I’m a basketcase…especially with my trusted traveling companion.
I swung by the outfitting shop to pick up my neoprene socks and boots and my hiking pole for the next day’s hike.
For the rest of the day, I camped out on Deep Creek's patio and ordered takeout from Oscar's for a late lunch.
I was hiking The Narrows on Tuesday, and I figured I’d try to hike the West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout on Wednesday. Since I would be physically in Zion Canyon on Tuesday morning without mobile service, I contracted out my friend Jordan to log in to recreation.gov on my behalf and snag me a shuttle reservation for the following day. I'm always utilizing my resources.
Day 4: Tuesday
It was hard for me to drop Addie off at daycare, but there was no time for questioning…I had to get to my private shuttle pick up location. It was a smooth operation. About eight people were on the shuttle, all wearing masks, and we drove right into the park. Our driver dropped us off at the trailhead for The Narrows and told us where to find the shuttle for the way back. I was off.
I didn't know what to expect, but after a regular, "dry" walk to the deeper part of the canyon, I quickly understood the purpose of the neoprene socks and boots. I'm also glad I wore shorts and dry-wick clothing. The canyon started wide and gradually became more narrow. It was so cool. Although crowded, because I got an early start, I could get some moments alone in the canyon.
At one point, I was in water chest-deep! I took one spill in the beginning. I’m so glad I had the pole - it acted as a third leg (base), which I needed because you couldn’t always see where you were stepping or what you were stepping on/in/over.
I wasn’t sure how far to go, so I turned around when I felt like it. I hiked at least a good six miles in the canyon, though. To say this hike was epic is an understatement. It was like no other.
After taking the shuttle back into town, I hustled to the daycare to scoop Addie. She had an incredible day. The owners of Doggie Dude Ranch were phenomenal. So much so that I decided I’d take Addie back the next day, especially because Jordan managed to reserve me a shuttle time for Wednesday morning.
Day 5: Wednesday
I checked out of the RV park early because I didn’t want to worry about getting back by a specific time to check out. I took Addie back to daycare, parked the car and Airstream in the RV parking area, and made the park shuttle by 8 am. By the way, the park shuttle was easy!
The West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout was arduous. The distance was only about two miles, but the elevation gain was about 1,000 feet. It was worth it, though. The views were breathtaking.
The next section of this trail, and the most legendary, was closed due to COVID. The hike to Angel’s Landing would have to wait.
Given that it was still early in the day, I hit Upper, Middle, and Lower Emerald Pool trails. This was a “convenience” hike. I was there, these trails were there, and since I was up for more, I hiked them.
I got back into town, picked up my car and Airstream, and fetched my girl. My time at Zion had come to a close. I exited the park through the east entrance, stopping along the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway to take in some sights.
I left feeling fulfilled, accomplished, and happy that I could do most that I set out to do at Zion. The lingering thing was Angel’s Landing…I had to figure out a way to do that hike later down the road. In the meantime, I had other places to visit in southern Utah.